• Out to Sea!

    Civitavecchia, Italy…an hour long train ride from central Rome, this port town is the gateway to the Celebrity Equinox and my next cruise!

    The train ride wasn’t ideal, air conditioning failed in first class and deodorant was lacking on the part of several local passengers! But the mood was lively with hordes of gay travelers crowding the train in order to get to port. The train turned into a big party, albeit a sweaty one!

    My friend Jeff is joining me on this all gay Atlantis charter…Jeff and I have been friends since our sophomore year of high school! Decades later, we still find time to travel together and channel our inner adolescents…I am ready to party, dance, and let loose on this 10 night Mediterranean cruise after the seriousness of my Eastern European travels!

    Dame Edna is tonight’s entertainment and Atlantis promises us major surprises as the cruise progresses!

    Arrividerci, Roma for now…Greece and Turkey here we come!

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  • Final Bon Voyage!

    Nafplion, Greece (Nafplio)…before leaving this town for my last night on board my yacht home of the last two weeks, Seabourn Odyssey, I tried to extend my day hanging out in Old Town Nafplio. I wanted to procrastinate packing and facing the reality that this part of my journey was coming to an end and my friend, Nichole was leaving me to go back to reality while I continued on my exploration of the world!

    We shared a great two weeks sailing this magical part of the Mediterranean. I have explored with and without her and she has relished time without her usual deadlines or to-do lists! I have ate way too much and drank myself beyond my usual limits!

    Seabourn provided a beautiful accommodation and worry free yet luxurious way to see places I never would have gotten to on my own.

    Back in town, hanging bougainvillea is draped across the walkways of Nafplio and swung from balcony to balcony…it is a beautiful contrast in comparison to the unusually painted buildings of the old town. Not the usual blue & white I have seen allover Greece, this town challenged conventional beachside color stories with burgundies, russet browns, deep turqs, and ochre yellows and mustards.

    I spent some time talking to a local cobbler and was fascinated by his collection of lasses and forms..I wish I found him earlier in the day so I coulda had a chic pair of Greek custom sandals crafted for me!

    I am not leaving Greece behind yet…tomorrow is hello Mykonos and goodbye to my yacht for now!
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  • Don’t mess with Mother Nature!

    Nature can be so mysterious & magical…thunder, lightening, threatening skies force you to appreciate the beauty and enormity of the environment around us!

    As evening came, we were sailing towards Greece and right through the most amazing electrical storms raining down from the heavens. Nature’s fireworks were on full display…the sky parted and streaks of light filled the horizon as we went from day to night. The seas remained calm as the clouds clamored with the loud thumps of thunder and lit up with an electric show of epic proportions. This was better than any special effects Hollywood can manufacture, this was an Oscar award worthy performance that came from a higher power!

    Storms can be menacing, but I couldn’t stop from staring at Mother Nature’s triumphant display on the open waters of the Adriatic! As the seas gently rocked me to sleep, I had a greater respect for what she can create and at the same time remained in awe of her brilliance!

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  • Power Shopper!

    Kotor, Montenegro…sunny skies greeted our early arrival today into this picturesque town nestled in the base of a gorgeous mountainside.

    I love getting inside perspectives of places from those in the know, so when the opportunity to set out with the ship’s chef into the local market presented itself, I thought this would be a fun intro into today’s port and it’s culture! Unfortunately, the early bird gets the worm and in order to have our pick of the liter, we had to set off very early on our expedition.

    Fresh tiny blueberries picked this morning on nearby hillsides, wild raspberries & plump blackberries in abundance…exceptional homemade olive oils being peddled by the woman who bottled them…robust fruit & veggies straight from remote village farms…cured meats with the animal’s hoof still attached all made for a taste of local flavor!

    Our South African chef assessed it all and bargained with the vendors as a crowd grew around him. It seemed the whole waterfront market was abuzz trying to get him to select their goods. We walked away with kilos of berries, some homemade cheese, and a type of local prosciutto that will all find their way into our lunch and dinner tonight! I always love a market, but getting to do it with an expert came with the added perk of a lot of taste testing of the fare on display. Yum!

    Now that’s called working for your dinner!

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  • Water, Water, Everywhere!

    Venice, Italy…I set the alarm for 6 am this morning to watch the magnificent sail into Venice! The cool air and cloudy skies were a welcome change of pace from days of boundless sunshine and soaring temperatures.

    Venice assaults you with historic beauty, ever present smells, a crush of tourists, and the singing of gondola drivers. It’s an overload on the senses…some moments amazing and some overwhelming!

    Getting lost in the winding streets is a must…the best designer clothing shops, exquisite fine jewelry, Italian crafted leathers, and of course Murano glass blown into every imaginable thing all abound down unsuspecting alley ways.

    I made my way thru St Marks Square to the Rialto Bridge and then a much needed rest stop at the Italianate Danieli Hotel overlooking the Grand Canal. Throughout the day, I marveled at the Carnival masks and decor and see people buying it up in droves…what will they do with those masks back home?I guess they are just caught up in the moment…

    I passed on a gondola ride this visit and thought a delicious Italian lunch Venetian style sounded perfect! The concierge recommended “Corte Sconta” and said I would love the seafood & pasta…navigating my way there was definitely a challenge but after finding this little gem, I was seated under a trellised ceiling filled with a bounty of grapes. The setting was perfect and the food was even better! Seafood made with Venetian flair; carpaccio of fresh tuna for starters followed by homemade pasta of red snapper and eggplant and tagliatelle with anchovies. These mild anchovies gave a rich salty taste and were an incredible compliment to the pasta. I hate anchovies but loved this dish! It always pays to step out of the norm and leave your comfort zone behind!

    The wonders of Italy never cease…

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  • Am I in Camelot?

    Dubrovnik,Croatia…this walled city is a trip back in time. Pulling into the small harbor, the city walls greeted our little tender boat. Passing through the arches into what looks like the home of the knights of the round table, tourists were swarming everywhere. The walled old town was fully abuzz as the sun heats up the already slippery stones that make up all the streets. My flip flops were not the best choice of footwear for this terrain, at times feeling as if I was ice skating on a marble slab.

    This is a beautiful place with a charm uniquely it’s own. Renaissance arches, terra-cotta roofs, and medieval clock towers rise above narrow passageways holding restaurants, jewelry stores, churches, and a fascinating open air market.

    Walking thru a random tiny doorway in the wall and you find yourself overlooking the blue seas and roof tops at the same time. An oasis from the heat is the cobalt seas…a makeshift diving platform is there for the courageous to dive right in! I dangled my feet into the cool waters but decided to set out on a stroll atop the wall!

    A long walkway following the periphery of this old city, the wall provides no relief from the sun…I didn’t make it to far before I turned around to retreat to a shaded cafe for a cold drink! Ahhhh….

    The beach to go to is a short boat ride from town…on the island of Lokrum. I think I got my fill of Vitamin D for today and will just enjoy watching the world go by in a spot that time seems to have forgot.

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  • I can’t live without…

    Parga,Greece…looks like a Greek Island but it’s on the mainland along a lovely stretch of the Ionian Sea. After a rocky night sailing through some crazy seas, we arrived.

    Today was low key…sailing the coast and then a wander round town. I won’t focus on my continuous bragging about the beautiful water as I think it’s clear how amazing Greece’s beaches & seas are by now!

    Yesterday my own stupidity took center stage, today the stupid souvenirs being sold allover town really took it’s toll…what is this crap? Who buys it? Why was it made? What does it have to do with Greece?

    I saw a crazy amount of phallic symbols, silly tees with dumb sayings on them, and more magnets than any refrigerator should ever hold! Is a penis bottle opener, a Parga Raggedy Ann doll, or a carved wood dog’s head shoe horn a necessary take away from my Greek holiday? Are these gifts I can’t live without? I don’t think so, but if anyone wants one I am happy to do my part reviving Greece’s economy buying them!

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  • Dumb, Dumb, & Dumber!

    Katakolon, Greece…I woke up this morning to the town of Katakolon, the gateway to Olympia. As much as it may be interesting to see the original home of the Olympic games, I decided to invest my time at a day swimming in the crystalline Greek water.

    I strolled through town at first and was amazed by the silly stuff that is being hawked to tourists…ugly leather sandals, bad linen wear, and Greek “evil eyes” made into every imaginable charm, and that’s only a few of the atrocities I saw!

    My striving to have “out of the box” experiences has begun to compromise my sanity…I made a series of silly choices today; I rented a 4 wheel ATV (more on that later), forgot to pick up a towel on the ship before disembarking, and left my beach shoes behind. The latter two were not the biggest deal, but the first was totally STUPID!

    I knew I wanted to go to the beach, Agios Andreas, which is little over 2 km from town…how to get there? Bus (no way after my Athens experience), Taxi (seems so unadventurous), or rent a Motorbike (seems so cool).
    I stopped at the motorbike rental spot and the guy gives me a once over as I stood there in my Marc Jacobs shades and says “you sure you know how to drive a motorbike?” Hmmm…I guess not!
    The rejection and doubt drives me to rent a 4 wheel ATV! This decision is as bright as a burnt out lightbulb! Me, driving a bike with a clutch? I barely can work an automatic vehicle! Well, looking like the Great Gazoo from the Flintstones in my helmut, I take off for the quick ten minute ride to the beach. I get out of town and on the first hill, it stalls! I call the store and they come to my rescue…I flooded the engine and drove in the wrong gear! Well I continue to do this and stall 3 more times, but at least I make it there and back in one piece…a few tantrums, but no injuries!

    The water was amazing, but it was a rocky pebbled beach that woulda been much easier if I had my beach shoes. Regardless, it was a great day with a large dose of dumb thrown in to make the memory that much more interesting!

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  • Gone Fishin’!

    Gythios (Gythion),Greece…Anchored at this tiny port in the Peloponnesos, today is a scorcher with temps above 100 degrees!

    This sleepy fishing village seems like what Greece was like years before mass tourism. A bit worn and shabby, the waterfront is full of stucco buildings set again a hilly terrain. The harbor is littered with fishing boats that earlier brought in today’s fresh catch…I loved seeing the fresh caught Octopus left hanging in the sun to dry like a load of newly washed laundry.

    You know you are in Greece by the crystal clear waters that are like an aquarium surrounding you. This isn’t a place of big sights, pulsing nightlife, or travel guide must-sees; rather a glimpse into the simple life…
    relaxing at a waterfront cafe, listening to stories from locals, and soaking in the slow pace. Of course, indulging in the freshest of seafood and delicious Greek delicacies is a must.

    I happened to stumble into the gallery of a local artist along the waterfront…I enjoyed his enthusiasm for this place and he gave me a few pointers…he told me the beach at Skoutari is one of the most lovely in the Peloponnesos.

    It’s been proven time and again this trip, that there are design moments to be found in unexpected places…a cafe along this stunning waterfront had the most interesting perforated “Tyvek” like tarp used for shade…Now where can I get one for my roof deck?

    For now, I am chillin’ like the locals until tomorrow, which will find me ready to soak it all in at a new spot!

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